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The backpack weighs eleven pounds. I know because I weighed it on a vegetable scale in a guesthouse in Rishikesh — the kind with a rusted dial and a metal…

The stone bench at the edge of the cloister has been warmed by the afternoon sun for six hundred years. Sit long enough and you feel it — not just…

The shutter sound on my phone is a small bird's wing. I noticed this on a rooftop in Varanasi at 5:40 in the morning, waiting for the sun over the…